On parle de nous

Zuren die je niet bezuren

5-3-2014 • De Grote Hamersma  9
Domaine Alice Beaufort 2011, ‘Grande Charme’, Vin de France

 

Van een domein waar ook huiveringwekkend zuivere mousserende wijn wordt gemaakt die net geen Champagne mag heten (want een paar kilometer buiten de grens van de appellation) maar beter is dan menig modelletje daarbinnen (Le Petit Beaufort 2007 Brut; DGH-cijfer 9,5).

Dit is ook weer op en top natuurwijn. Maar nu een 'stille' die echter niet stilgezwegen mag worden. Om een paar redenen.

Om te beginnen: opmerkelijk een-tweetje tussen pinot noir en chardonnay.

Vervolgens om zijn zuren die in de smaak zullen vallen bij de gevorderde drinker: chabliszuren, vervliegzuren, sauvignon st. briszuren, voortdurende zuren.

Maar ook walnoten, jodium en rokerigheid.

Tot slot: slechts 10 procent alcohol en toch zo volop aanwezig. Het Grande Charme offensief is gelukt.

(Sneak preview De Grote Hamersma 2015

 

Laat ze maar in Reims

24-1-2014 • De Grote Hamersma  9.5
 Le petit Beaufort 2007. Vin Effervescent Brut Réserve

 

Champagne die geen Champagne mag heten. En dan ook eens veel beter is dan menig Champagne die wel Champagne mag heten.

Quentin Beaufort is de derde zoon van Jacques Beaufort (van Champagne André & Jacques Beaufort) en was enkele jaren de wijnmaker op het familiedomein. Op zoek naar wijngaarden om voor zichzelf te beginnen kwam hij buiten het Champagne-gebied terecht, in het noord-oostelijkste puntje van het departement Côte d'Or in de Bourgogne.

 Op slechts 7 kilometer afstand van de grens van de Champagne vond hij een wijngaard met een terroir dat vrijwel identiek is aan dat van de familiale Champagne wijngaarden in Polisy. Aan de slag dus. Maar dan wel ook bio tot ver achter de komma.

 'Dit zijn zeer opwindende wijnen! Een aanvulling op ons assortiment waar we zelf nogal opgetogen over zijn!' schrijft de importeur op zijn site. Daarom gebruikt hij waarschijnlijk ook twee uitroeptekens om zijn woorden kracht bij te zetten.

Gewoonlijk leidt dat bij mij tot argwaan, maar zijn aanbod aan Champagnes kennende heeft hij alle reden om zeker te zijn van zijn zaak. En na het proeven van ‘le petit’ ik ook.

Dit is Champagne zoals ik die lekker vind. Verfijnd en meedogenloos. Nog bruter dan Brut, want zonder dosage. Een diepgaande vulling dankzij vijf jaar sur lattes. Huiveringwekkend zuiver. Zachtziltig. Glinsterzuren. Magistrale mousse.

Grote wijn. En 'm dan toch Le petit Beaufort noemen. Dan ben je als wijnmaker ook zeker van je zaak.

 

mercoledì 26 giugno 2013 14:15:00                                    
                                     
di Roberto Bellini 
Dopo il mini exploit del 2010, è arrivato anche il 2011: Le Petit Beaufort Vin Effervescent.
La cuvée è cambiata, il 2010 era composto da 80% Pinot Noir e 20% Chardonnay, adesso si compone con Chardonnay e Pinot Noir in ugual misura.
Qualcuno ha sentenziato che si tratta di una sfida alla Borgogna, in verità non è altro che l’applicazione della filosofia del vecchio vigneron Jacques Beaufort: uno spicchio di Ambonnay in alta Côte d’Or.
Il Petit Beaufort è l’espressione di Alice e Quentin Beaufort, i quali da una parte hanno ringiovanito alcuni passaggi enologici, dall’altra restano attaccati a certe naturalità che portano al modo di fare vino a prima del 1900.
Un riferimento ancestrale è quello della vendemmia, il Domaine Alice Beaufort la inizia cento giorni dopo la fioritura,  mentre (secondo loro) le Maison la iniziano due settimane prima per preservare l’acidità. La vinificazione è tutta naturale, non ci sono lieviti aggiunti, non c’è controllo della temperatura, perché l’escursione termica è collegata al susseguirsi delle stagioni: caldo d’estate, freddo in inverno. A loro dire adottano anche l’aggiunta di solforosa à la romaine, facendo bruciare dello zolfo puro in botte chiusa e poi ci versano il succo del vino da lavorare. In questo modo rispettano la naturalità e quindi il tenore in SO2 è minore (però c’è). La fermentazione malolattica è favorita per permettere la stabilizzazione del vino.
Il vino fa tutto il suo viaggio in legno, però l’età del legno ha minimo 3 anni, ciò consente di ottenere una micro-ossigenazione collegata a un’ossidazione controllata e non il gusto e gli aromi del legno. Finita la fermentazione arriva il travaso, le botti vengono lavate e il vino viene rimesso nelle stesse botti per il meritato riposo prima del tirage.
Ad Agosto c’è l’assemblage, in questo caso orizzontale perché è una sola vendemmia, e l’inizio della presa di spuma, a fine viaggio (circa 9 mesi), dopo una sboccatura à la volée, l’aggiunta del dosage prevede l’uso di zucchero d’uva concentrato.  Questa operazione viene valutata di volta in volta per meglio architettare un ottimale (e complicato) rapporto acidità/zucchero, che nel caso del 2011 è fondato sulla vivace acidità.
Le Petit Beaufort 2011 è una complicazione olfattiva e gusto olfattiva. A parte il colore di un giallo paglia assolato, ha profumi di un campo in cui si è mietuto il grano, in parte paglia secca e in parte odore di lolla o loppa, poi nespola con buccia maculata di rossiccio, poi agrumi e fiori gialli dolcissimi, infine del pagliericcio che fermenta a contatto con la terra umida.
Il gusto è irruente in freschezza, un’oscillazione acidula ma non aspra, una combinazione vivace ma non verdeggiante, un diluire sapido, un’attrazione ghiacciata in effetto termico.
Un vino goloso, che frizza in tutto il suo essere beverino, e poi quegli 11° in alcool che sembrano il toccasana in quest’estate etilometrica.
 
© Associazione Italiana Sommelier (ed altri contributi)

Petit Beaufort Brut Millésime 2010

The Petit Beaufort Brut Millésime 2010 from Domaine Alice Beaufort. A great Champagne? Nope! A great Burgundy!
 It is difficult if not impossible to work with wine when you have a name like Beaufort and you are married to one of the children of the most charismatic and alternative winemakers in the Champagne region.
Alice and Quentin Beaufort, the third child of the great Jacques, crowned their dream of love when, in 2007, they were offered a small vineyard of four acres close to the border of the Champagne region and the historic vineyards of Polisy, which are about 15 miles away as the crow flies.
We are in Burgundy, at the edge of Côte d'Or, but Alice and Quentin aren’t worried, on the contrary, they are happy to work within a more flexible legislation with respect to that of the Champagne region. However, at the same time, they are also aware that the small vineyard they have acquired, and which today has expanded to about 22 acres, has a great potential given that it is located within a terroir identical to Polisy, especially geologically.
Why not take the opportunity to produce, not great Champagne, but a great Crémant de Bourgogne?
The methods and experiences of the Beaufort house are obviously followed in the vineyard, which involve the banning of chemicals and only the use of treatments based on essential oils, aromatherapy and copper, the use of which, so they write on their site, is about half of that provided for by the organic guidelines.
Vinification also follows the natural path: there is no use of selected yeasts, bacteria, or enzymes, no practice of sugaring, acidification, filtration, and no temperature control. It will be cold in the winter and hot in the summer. Very little sulfur is used.
Fermentation takes place in oak barrels that are at least three years old. After carrying out the malolactic fermentation, the wine is bottled in the summer, generally in August, to allow them to perform the second fermentation, which is always followed by disgorging "à la volée".
Having made this opportune introduction which gives an overview of the context in which the “sparkling” wine is produced, I must admit that Le Petit Beaufort Brut Millésime 2010 (75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay) that I drank from Remigio really surprised me, obviously in a positive sense.
The wine has a fine and persistent perlage and an initially hard olfactory profile that I am sure will cause some… to turn up their noses. Champagne is more elegant. Here, in effect, the minerals are rampant; they reach you with an unexpected slap and, while you are still trying to understand what happened, the smell of salt enters your nostrils. If you close your eyes, you will think that you are on the shore of your favorite beach instead of in Burgundy.
Is that it? No way! In fact, as soon as you assume that, despite everything, your Crémant de Bourgogne is good but a little too monothematic, the fruit arrives, pear and white peach throughout it all, to make the aromatic picture unexpectedly complex, muffling a certain rustic character that, with time, is further refined with the emergence of hints of ginger, wet earth, citrus, and red sorrel.
In the mouth it is consistent and sharp; the salty note that it leaves after swallowing brings me back to when I was young, with my usual sore throat, when my mother made me rinse with water and salt.
The creaminess of the wine comes later, like a wave, to balance everything and bring me back from the past. 
Alice, on the website of her Domaine, apologizes that she sells wines that are too young. Words that are a guarantee of honesty and quality. If you pass by Remigio, try to buy an extra bottle; drink one with Stefano and Alessandro, and put the other in the cellar next to the real Champagnes. You’ll see…
By: Paths of Wine
From Italy | 13 Jan 2013
 
Pour le Japon :
 
 
シャンパーニュじゃないけど…
とんでもなくシャンパーニュの味わいを満喫!



妙な表現から始まって、皆様を戸惑わせていますか?!


このワインが造られている場所はトロワの南東約70km。

シャンパーニュ(AOC)を名乗るブドウ栽培地をわずか数キロメートル超えているために、
シャンパンと同じ方法で造っていてもシャンパンの名前を名乗れないのです。


そんな訳で、ラベルには「発泡性ワイン」という意味のフランス語(Vin Effervescent)で表示されています。


もう気が付いていらっしゃる方もおいででしょうが…このワインを造っているのは、
シャンパーニュ地方、アンボネー村を代表する有機栽培の蔵元「アンドレ・ボーフォール」家の息子さん。

偉大なジャック氏の3番目の息子であるカンタン氏が、2007年に妻のアリスさんと創立したドメーヌなのです。


祖父のアンドレ氏の時から昔ながらのブドウ栽培をしてきたメゾンに育ったカンタン氏は、その祖父、父から
受け継いだ精神を柱に土を大切にし、そして自分達が暮らす環境を傷つけない農業に日々努力しています。


農薬、除草剤など化学的なものを使用しないのはもちろん、
エッセンシャルオイルを使ったアロマテラピーによって病気を予防する栽培を行っています。

栽培面積は8.5ha。その内7haが日照に優れたすり鉢状の形をした立地。
そこで栽培されるピノ・ノワールとシャルドネが、このル・プティ・ボーフォールとなって届きました!



微かにピンクを感じる色合いです!
グラスに注いだとたん、フレッシュな桃のような香りが部屋中に…!


グラスに注いだ時の泡をご覧ください!!!
繊細な泡のラインがツンツンと底から上がっている様は、まさにシャンパーニュの姿!

そのキラキラ泡はずーっと続き、やむことがありません。思わず「オオオーっ」と言ってしまったほどです。


洋ナシ、白桃、柑橘系の香りに鉱物系の香りも混じります。口に入れた時のクリーミーさにはニンマリ。
飲んだ後にレモンの皮あのような風味。1杯目はちょっぴり酵母を感じる穀類系の風味に果実。

ところが!
2杯目から果実が前面に表れてふんだんな果実味を感じていただけます。舌に残る苦みと辛みが魅力的!


ただ、あと1,2年熟成が長かったら…なんて贅沢な味わいを想像した私でしたが、
この価格であと1,2年の熟成なんて、虫が良すぎますよねェ。。


シャンパーニュとは呼べませんが、プティ・シャンパーニュと私は呼びたいと思います。
しっかりと時間をかけて、ゆっくりと味わって頂きたいワインです。


厳しい選果の後ブドウを圧搾。清澄した果汁を4年以上の古樽に入れて、アルコール発酵と熟成に約1年。
2011年10月にビン詰めして二次発酵。デゴルジュマンの時にノンドザージュで仕上げています。
 

bordure bs

Domaine Alice Beaufort


Prusly sur Ource - Côte d'Or
03 25 29 85 35
Contactez-nous
Crédits